{"id":511,"date":"2017-02-17T23:31:36","date_gmt":"2017-02-17T23:31:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/?page_id=511"},"modified":"2021-05-04T13:53:51","modified_gmt":"2021-05-04T13:53:51","slug":"batteries-their-care-and-feeding","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/reference-info\/batteries-their-care-and-feeding\/","title":{"rendered":"Batteries \u2013 Their Care and Feeding . . ."},"content":{"rendered":"<h2><em><strong>A Compendium Of Battery Information<\/strong><\/em><\/h2>\n<h3>Downloadable article as a PDF by <a href=\"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/Batteries-\u2013-Their-Care-and-Feeding.pdf\">clicking here<\/a>.<\/h3>\n<h3><strong>First, a little history \u2013<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>Although Alessandro Volta in Italy is usually credited with being the inventor of the\u00a0modern battery (Silver-Zinc), ancient cells have been discovered in Sumerian ruins,\u00a0origin around 250 BC.. or maybe 400 AD &#8211; there is some dispute over the exact age.\u00a0The first evidence of batteries comes from archaeological digs in Baghdad, Iraq. \u00a0his\u00a0first &#8220;battery&#8221; was dated to around 250 (?) B.C. and was used in simple operations to\u00a0electroplate objects with a thin layer of metal, much like the process used now to plate\u00a0inexpensive gold and silver jewelry [This is also debated, the current put out by these\u00a0batteries is very small, so they may have been no more than a witch doctors props to\u00a0amaze patients with electrical tingles].<\/p>\n<p>The jars were found in Khujut Rabu just outside Baghdad and are composed of a clay\u00a0jar with a stopper made of asphalt. Sticking through the asphalt is an iron rod\u00a0surrounded by a copper cylinder. When filled with vinegar or even grape juice &#8211; or any\u00a0other electrolytic solution &#8211; the jar produces about 1.1 volts. The actual term \u00a0&#8220;battery&#8221;\u00a0was coined by Benjamin Franklin to describe an array of static charged glass plates\u00a0(sort of a primitive capacitor). He used the term battery, as that term was \u00a0common at\u00a0the time for a group of guns or artillery.<\/p>\n<p>Batteries were re-discovered much later, in 1800 in Italy by a man named Alessandro\u00a0Volta after which the unit of electrical potential was named, the volt. His original\u00a0battery consisted of discs of Zinc and Copper in a large glass tube separated by\u00a0cardboard. The French inventor, Gaston Plante developed the first practical Lead-Acid\u00a0rechargeable storage battery in 1859. In 1881 Faure discovered a way to make a\u00a0Lead &#8220;paste&#8221;, which greatly improved the capacity of batteries. This is basically the\u00a0same method and chemistry used in most batteries today.<\/p>\n<p>Most early batteries were used for telegraphs, and research and development was\u00a0slow until the automobile came along. Some of the first cars were electric, and relied\u00a0on these rather primitive batteries to get around. With the suddenly increased demand\u00a0for rechargeable batteries, the modern battery started to take shape. One of the first\u00a0commercial car batteries was made with an Oak wood case with Red Cedar plate\u00a0separators. A variety of other woods were used, but Cedar was most common. The\u00a0cases were dipped in asphalt, assembled, and then the top was glued, tied, screwed,\u00a0or latched on. Up until around 1916 it was quite common to have these batteries\u00a0repaired, so they had to be easy to take apart. A few &#8220;luxury&#8221; batteries also used glass\u00a0cases, and a variety of what we would consider strange materials were tried by some\u00a0manufacturers &#8211; including kiln fired clay and heavily waxed leather. Needless to say,\u00a0reliability was not a strong point, and neither was safety.<\/p>\n<p>Rubber plate separators were introduced by Willard Battery Company in 1915. Shortly\u00a0after, Willard and several other companies started using hard rubber cases. These\u00a0were common in car batteries until the invention of easily molded plastics, like\u00a0Bakelite, prior to WW2. The first gelled VRLA battery was made in 1958, and\u00a0Polypropylene cases became common in the mid to late 60&#8217;s. In 1980 the first AGM\u00a0(absorbed glass mat) battery was invented, mainly for military use. Up until the early\u00a090&#8217;s AGM batteries were very uncommon outside the military, but then around 1991\u00a0Concorde battery began selling its military line of batteries to the civilian market. Accu\u00a0Oerlikin and several other manufacturers followed soon after.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>What is a battery?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>There are two classes of batteries, primary and secondary. No idea why they are\u00a0called that, but primary cannot be recharged, secondary can be. A battery, in concept,\u00a0can be any device that stores energy for later use. A rock, pushed to the top of a hill,\u00a0can be considered a kind of battery, since the energy used to push it up the hill<br \/>\n(chemical energy, from muscles or combustion engines) is converted and stored as\u00a0potential kinetic energy at the top of the hill. Later, that energy is released as kinetic\u00a0and thermal energy when the rock rolls down the hill. Common use of the word,\u00a0&#8220;battery,&#8221; however, is usually limited to an electrochemical device that converts\u00a0chemical energy into electricity, by use of a galvanic cell. A galvanic cell is a fairly\u00a0simple device consisting of two electrodes (an anode and a cathode) and an<br \/>\nelectrolyte solution. Batteries consist of one or more galvanic cells.<\/p>\n<p>A battery is an electrical storage device. Batteries do not make electricity, they\u00a0store it, just as a water tank stores water for future use. As chemicals in the battery\u00a0change, \u00a0electrical energy is stored or released. In rechargeable batteries this process\u00a0can be repeated many times. Batteries are not 100% efficient &#8211; some energy is lost as\u00a0heat and chemical reactions when charging and discharging. If you use 1000 watts\u00a0from a battery, it might take 1200 watts or more to fully recharge it. Slower charging\u00a0and discharging rates are more efficient. A battery rated at 180 amp-hours over 6\u00a0hours might be rated at 220 AH at the 20-hour rate, and 260 AH at the 48-hour rate.\u00a0Typical efficiency in a lead-acid battery is 85-95%, in alkaline nickel-iron and nickel cadmium\u00a0batteries, it is 65% or less.<\/p>\n<p>It is important to note that most of the batteries commonly used in deep cycle\u00a0applications are lead-acid. This includes the standard flooded (wet) batteries, gelled,\u00a0and AGM. They all use the same chemistry, although the actual construction of the\u00a0plates etc can vary considerably. Nickel cadmiums, nickel-iron, and other types are\u00a0found in some systems, but are not common due to their expense, availability, &#8211; they\u00a0are generally only used in very unusual or demanding applications, such as aircraft,\u00a0transit vehicles, ships, etc.<\/p>\n<h3>Major Battery Types<\/h3>\n<p>Batteries are divided in two ways, by application (what they are used for) and\u00a0construction (how they are built). The major applications are automotive, marine, and\u00a0deep-cycle. Deep-cycle includes solar electric, backup power, RV and boat &#8220;house&#8221;\u00a0batteries. The major construction types are flooded (wet), gelled, and AGM (Absorbed\u00a0Glass Mat). AGM batteries are also sometimes called &#8220;starved electrolyte&#8221; or &#8220;dry&#8221;,\u00a0because the fiberglass mat is only 95% saturated with sulfuric acid and there is no\u00a0excess liquid<\/p>\n<p>Flooded may be standard, with removable caps, or the so-called &#8220;maintenance free&#8221;\u00a0(that means they are designed to die one week after the warranty runs out). All gelled\u00a0are sealed and a few are &#8220;valve regulated&#8221;, which means that a tiny valve keeps a\u00a0slight positive pressure. Nearly all AGM batteries are sealed valve regulated\u00a0(commonly referred to as &#8220;VRLA&#8221; &#8211; Valve Regulated Lead-acid). Most valve regulated\u00a0are under some pressure &#8211; 1 to 4 psi at sea level.<\/p>\n<h3>Lifespan of Batteries<\/h3>\n<p>The lifespan of a battery will vary considerably with how it is used, how it is\u00a0maintained and charged, temperature, and other factors. In extreme cases, it can vary\u00a0to extremes \u2013 good batteries can be killed in less than a year by severe overcharging,\u00a0but a large set of surplus telephone batteries that sees only occasional (5-10 times\u00a0per year) heavy service can be over 25 years old. Gelled cells will be destroyed in one\u00a0day when overcharged with a large automotive charger. Golf cart batteries have been\u00a0destroyed without ever being used in less than a year because they were left sitting in\u00a0a hot garage without being charged. Even the so-called &#8220;dry charged&#8221; (where \u00a0you add\u00a0acid when you need them) have a shelf life of at most 18 months, as they are not\u00a0totally dry (actually, a few are, but hard to find, the vast majority are shipped with<br \/>\ndamp plates).<\/p>\n<p>These are some general (minimum &#8211; maximum) typical expectations for batteries if used\u00a0in deep cycle service:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Starting: 3-12 months<\/li>\n<li>Marine: 1-6 years<\/li>\n<li>Golf cart: 2-6 years<\/li>\n<li>AGM deep cycle: 4-7 years (this can vary considerably &#8211; the large 2 volt cells can last for\u00a020+)<\/li>\n<li>Gelled deep cycle: 2-5 years<\/li>\n<li>Deep cycle (L-16 type etc): 4-8 years<\/li>\n<li>Rolls-Surrette premium deep cycle: 7-15 years<\/li>\n<li>Industrial deep cycle (Crown and Rolls 4KS series): 10-20+ years<\/li>\n<li>Telephone (used) (float): 1-20 years. These are usually special purpose &#8220;float service&#8221;,\u00a0but often appear on the surplus market as &#8220;deep cycle&#8221;. They can vary considerably,\u00a0depending on age, usage, care, and type.<\/li>\n<li>Nickel- iron (alkaline): 5-35 years<\/li>\n<li>Nickel-cadmium (alkaline): 1-20 years<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><strong>Starting, Marine, and Deep-Cycle Batteries<\/strong><\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Starting (sometimes called SLI, for starting, lighting, ignition) batteries<\/strong> are\u00a0commonly used to start and run engines. Engine starters need a very large\u00a0starting current for a very short time. Starting batteries have a large number\u00a0of thin plates for maximum surface area. The plates are composed of a\u00a0Lead &#8220;sponge&#8221;, similar in appearance to a very fine foam sponge. This gives\u00a0a very large surface area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be\u00a0consumed and fall to the bottom of the cells. Automotive batteries will\u00a0generally fail after 30-150 deep cycles if deep cycled, while they may last for\u00a0thousands of cycles in normal starting use (2-5% discharge).<\/li>\n<li><strong>Deep cycle batteries<\/strong> are designed to be discharged down as much as 80%\u00a0time after time, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between\u00a0a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are SOLID Lead\u00a0plates &#8211; not sponge. Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what you are\u00a0really buying in some of the discount stores or places that specialize in\u00a0automotive batteries. The popular golf cart battery is generally a &#8220;semi&#8221;\u00a0deep cycle &#8211; better than any starting battery, better than most marine, but\u00a0not as good as a true deep cycle solid Lead plate, such the L-16 or\u00a0industrial type. However, because the golf cart (T-105, US-2200, GC-4 etc)<br \/>\nbatteries are so common, they are usually quite economical for small to\u00a0medium systems.<\/li>\n<li>Many (most?) <strong>Marine batteries<\/strong> are usually actually a &#8220;hybrid&#8221;, and fall\u00a0between the starting and deep-cycle batteries, while a few (Rolls-Surrette\u00a0and Concorde, for example) are true deep cycle. In the hybrid, the plates\u00a0may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that\u00a0used in starting batteries. It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a\u00a0&#8220;marine&#8221; battery, but most are a hybrid. &#8220;Hybrid&#8221; types should not be\u00a0discharged more than 50%. Starting batteries are usually rated at &#8220;CCA&#8221;, or\u00a0cold cranking amps, or &#8220;MCA&#8221;, Marine cranking amps &#8211; the same as &#8220;CA&#8221;.\u00a0Any battery with the capacity shown in CA or MCA may not be a true \u00a0deepcycle\u00a0battery. It is sometimes hard to tell, as the terms marine and deep\u00a0cycle are sometimes overused. CA and MCA ratings are at 32 degrees F,\u00a0while CCA is at zero degree F. Unfortunately, the only positive way to tell\u00a0with some batteries is to buy one and cut it open &#8211; not much of an option.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Battery Construction Materials<\/h3>\n<p>Nearly all large rechargeable batteries in common use are Lead-acid type. (There are\u00a0some NiCads in use, but for most purposes the very high initial expense, and the high\u00a0expense of disposal, does not justify them). The acid is typically 30% Sulfuric acid and\u00a070% water at full charge. NiFe (Nickel-Iron) batteries are also available &#8211; these have a\u00a0very long life, but rather poor efficiency (60-70%) and the voltages are different,\u00a0making it more difficult to match up with standard 12v\/24\/48v systems and inverters.\u00a0The biggest problem with NiFe batteries is that you may have to put in 100 watts to\u00a0get 70 watts of charge &#8211; they are much less efficient than Lead-acid. What you save\u00a0on batteries you will have to make up for by buying a larger solar panel system.\u00a0NiCads are also inefficient &#8211; typically around 65% &#8211; and very expensive. However,\u00a0NiCads can be frozen without damage, so are sometimes used in areas where the\u00a0temperatures may fall below -50 degrees F. Most AGM batteries will also survive\u00a0freezing with no problems, even though the output when frozen will be little or nothing.<\/p>\n<h3>Industrial deep cycle batteries<\/h3>\n<p>Sometimes called &#8220;fork lift&#8221;, &#8220;traction&#8221; or &#8220;stationary&#8221; batteries, are used where power\u00a0is needed over a longer period of time, and are designed to be &#8220;deep cycled&#8221;, or\u00a0discharged down as low as 20% of full charge (80% DOD, or Depth of Discharge).\u00a0These are often called traction batteries because of their widespread use in forklifts,\u00a0golf carts, and floor sweepers (from which we get the &#8220;GC&#8221; and &#8220;FS&#8221; series of battery\u00a0sizes). Deep cycle batteries have much thicker plates than automotive batteries.<\/p>\n<h3>Plate Thickness<\/h3>\n<p>Plate thickness (of the Positive plate) matters because of a factor called &#8220;<strong>positive\u00a0grid corrosion<\/strong>&#8220;. This ranks among the top 3 reasons for battery failure. The positive\u00a0(+) plate is what gets eaten away gradually over time, so eventually there is nothing\u00a0left &#8211; it all falls to the bottom as sediment. Thicker plates are directly related to longer\u00a0life, so other things being equal, the battery with the thickest plates will last the\u00a0longest.<\/p>\n<p>Automotive batteries typically have plates about .040&#8243; (40\/1000&#8243;) thick, while forklift\u00a0batteries may have plates more than 1\/4&#8243; (.265&#8243; for example in the Rolls-Surrette)\u00a0thick &#8211; almost 7 times as thick as auto batteries. The typical golf cart will have plates\u00a0that are around .07 to .11&#8243; thick. The Concorde AGM&#8217;s are .115&#8243;, The Rolls-Surrette L-16 type (CH460) is .150&#8243;, and the US Battery and Trojan L-16 types are .090&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>Most industrial deep-cycle batteries use Lead-Antimony plates rather than the Lead-Calcium used in AGM or gelled deep-cycle batteries. The Antimony increases plate life and strength, but increases gassing and water loss. This is why most industrial\u00a0batteries have to be checked often for water level if you do not have Hydrocaps. The\u00a0self discharge of batteries with Lead-Antimony plates can be high &#8211; as much as 1%\u00a0per day on an older battery. A new AGM typically self-discharges at about 1-2% per\u00a0month, while an old one may be as much as 2% per week.<\/p>\n<h3>Sealed batteries<\/h3>\n<p>Sealed batteries are made with vents that (usually) cannot be removed. The so-called\u00a0Maintenance Free batteries are also sealed, but are not usually leak proof. Sealed\u00a0batteries are not totally sealed, as they must allow gas to vent during charging. If\u00a0overcharged too many times, some of these batteries can lose enough water that they\u00a0will die before their time. Most smaller deep cycle batteries (including AGM) use\u00a0Lead-Calcium plates for increased life, while most industrial and forklift batteries use\u00a0Lead-Antimony for greater plate strength.<\/p>\n<p>A few industrial batteries have special caps that convert the Hydrogen and Oxygen\u00a0back into water, reducing water loss by up to 95%. The popular &#8220;HydroCaps&#8221; that sold\u00a0for flooded batteries do the same job for conventional (&#8220;wet&#8221;), golf cart, and forklift\u00a0batteries. Lead-Antimony batteries have a much higher self-discharge rate (2-10%\u00a0per week) than Lead or Lead-Calcium (1-5% per month), but the Antimony improves\u00a0the mechanical strength of the plates, which is an important factor in electric vehicles.\u00a0They are generally used where they are under constant or very frequent\u00a0charge\/discharge cycles, such as fork lifts and floor sweepers. The Antimony\u00a0increases plate life at the expense of higher self discharge. If left for long periods\u00a0unused, these should be trickle charged to avoid damage from sulfation &#8211; but this\u00a0applies to ANY battery.<\/p>\n<p>As in all things, there are trade offs. The Lead-Antimony types have a very long\u00a0lifespan, but higher self discharge rates.<\/p>\n<h3>Battery Size Codes<\/h3>\n<p>Batteries come in all different sizes. Many have &#8220;group&#8221; sizes, which is based upon\u00a0the physical size and terminal placement. It is NOT a measure of battery capacity.\u00a0Typical BCI codes are group U1, 24, 27, and 31. Industrial batteries are usually\u00a0designated by a part number such as &#8220;FS&#8221; for floor sweeper, or &#8220;GC&#8221; for golf cart.\u00a0Many batteries follow no particular code, and are just manufacturers part numbers.\u00a0Other standard size codes are 4D &amp; 8D, large industrial batteries, commonly used in\u00a0solar electric systems.<\/p>\n<p>Some common battery size codes used are: (ratings are approximate)<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>U1 34 to 40 Amp hours 12 volts<\/li>\n<li>Group 24 70-85 Amp hours 12 volts<\/li>\n<li>Group 27 85-105 Amp hours 12 volts<\/li>\n<li>Group 31 95-125 Amp hours 12 volts<\/li>\n<li>4-D 180-215 Amp hours 12 volts<\/li>\n<li>8-D 225-255 Amp hours 12 volts<\/li>\n<li>Golf cart &amp; T-105 180 to 220 Amp hours 6 volts<\/li>\n<li>L-16 340 to 415 Amp hours 6 volts<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Gelled electrolyte<\/h3>\n<p>Gelled batteries, or &#8220;Gel Cells&#8221; contain acid that has been &#8220;gelled&#8221; by the addition of\u00a0Silica Gel, turning the acid into a semi-solid mass that looks like gooey Jell-O. The\u00a0advantage of these batteries is that it is impossible to spill acid even if they are\u00a0broken. However, there are several disadvantages. One is that they must be charged\u00a0at a slower rate (C\/20 maximum) to prevent excess gas from damaging the cells and\u00a0causing bubbles or pockets in the electrolyte. They cannot be fast charged on \u00a0conventional automotive charger or they may be permanently damaged. This is not\u00a0usually a problem with solar electric systems, but if an auxiliary generator or inverter\u00a0bulk charger is used, current must be limited to the manufacturers\u2019 specifications.\u00a0Most better inverters commonly used in solar electric systems can be set to limit\u00a0charging current to the batteries.<\/p>\n<p>Some other disadvantages of gel cells is that they must be charged at a lower voltage\u00a0(2\/10th&#8217;s less) than flooded or AGM batteries. If overcharged, voids can develop in the\u00a0gel which will never heal, causing a loss in battery capacity. In hot climates, water loss\u00a0can be enough over 2-4 years to cause premature battery death. It is for this and\u00a0other reasons that we no longer sell any of the gelled cells except for replacement\u00a0use. The newer AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries have all the advantages and\u00a0then some) of gelled, with none of the disadvantages.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>AGM, or Absorbed Glass Mat Batteries<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>A newer type of sealed battery uses &#8220;Absorbed Glass Mats&#8221;, or AGM between the\u00a0plates. This is a very fine fiber Boron-Silicate glass mat. These type of batteries have\u00a0all the advantages of gelled, but can take much more abuse. We sell the Concorde\u00a0(and Lifeline, made by Concorde) AGM batteries. These are also called &#8220;starved\u00a0electrolyte&#8221;, as the mat is about 95% saturated rather than fully soaked. That also\u00a0means that they will not leak acid even if broken. AGM batteries have several advantages over both gelled and flooded, at about the\u00a0same cost as gelled:\u00a0Since all the electrolyte (acid) is contained in the glass mats, they cannot spill, even if\u00a0broken. This also means that since they are non-hazardous, the shipping costs are\u00a0lower. In addition, since there is no liquid to freeze and expand, they are practically\u00a0immune from freezing damage.<\/p>\n<p>Nearly all AGM batteries are &#8220;recombinant&#8221; &#8211; what that means is that the Oxygen and\u00a0Hydrogen recombine INSIDE the battery. These use gas phase transfer of oxygen to\u00a0the negative plates to recombine them back into water while charging and prevent the\u00a0loss of water through electrolysis. The recombining is typically 99+% efficient, so\u00a0almost no water is lost.\u00a0The charging voltages are the same as for any standard battery &#8211; no need for any\u00a0special adjustments or problems with incompatible chargers or \u00a0charge controls. And,\u00a0since the internal resistance is extremely low, there is almost no heating of the battery\u00a0even under heavy charge and discharge currents. The Concorde (and most AGM)\u00a0batteries have no charge or discharge current limits.<\/p>\n<p>AGM&#8217;s have a very low self-discharge &#8211; from 1% to 3% per month is usual. This\u00a0means that they can sit in storage for much longer periods without charging than\u00a0standard batteries. The Concorde batteries can be almost fully recharged (95% or\u00a0better) even after 30 days of being totally discharged. AGM&#8217;s do not have any liquid to spill, and even under severe overcharge conditions\u00a0hydrogen emission is far below the 4% max specified for aircraft and enclosed\u00a0spaces. The plates in AGM&#8217;s are tightly packed and rigidly mounted, and will\u00a0withstand shock and vibration better than any standard battery.<\/p>\n<p>Even with all the advantages listed above, there is still a place for the standard flooded deep cycle battery. AGM&#8217;s will cost about twice as much as good flooded<br \/>\nbatteries of the same capacity. In many installations, where the batteries are set in an\u00a0area where you don&#8217;t have to worry about fumes or leakage, a standard or industrial\u00a0deep cycle is a better economic choice. AGM batteries main advantages are no\u00a0maintenance, completely sealed against fumes, Hydrogen, or leakage, non-spilling\u00a0even if they are broken, and can survive most freezes. Not everyone needs these\u00a0features.<\/p>\n<h3>Temperature Effects on Batteries<\/h3>\n<p>Battery capacity (how many amp-hours it can hold) is reduced as temperature goes\u00a0down, and increased as temperature goes up. This is why your car battery dies on a\u00a0cold winter morning, even though it worked fine the previous afternoon. If your\u00a0batteries spend part of the year shivering in the cold, the reduced capacity has to be\u00a0taken into ccount when sizing the system batteries. The standard rating for batteries\u00a0is at room temperature &#8211; 25 degrees C (about 77 F). At approximately -22 degrees F (-27 C), battery AH capacity\u00a0drops to 50%. At freezing,\u00a0capacity is reduced by 20%.\u00a0Capacity is increased at higher\u00a0temperatures &#8211; at 122 degrees\u00a0F, battery capacity would be\u00a0about 12% higher.\u00a0Battery charging voltage also\u00a0changes with temperature. It\u00a0will vary from about 2.74 volts\u00a0per cell (16.4 volts) at -40 C to\u00a02.3 volts per cell (13.8 volts) at\u00a050 C. \u00a0This is why you should\u00a0have temperature\u00a0compensation on your charger\u00a0or charge control if your\u00a0batteries are outside and\/or\u00a0subject to wide temperature\u00a0variations. Some charge\u00a0controls have temperature\u00a0compensation built in (such as\u00a0Morningstar) &#8211; this works fine if\u00a0the controller is subject to the\u00a0same temperatures as the batteries. However, if your batteries are outside, and the\u00a0controller is inside, it does not work that well. Adding another complication is that large\u00a0battery banks make up a large <strong>thermal mass<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/Battery-Diagram-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-512\" src=\"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/Battery-Diagram-1-294x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"294\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Thermal mass means that because they have so much mass, they will change\u00a0internal temperature much slower than the surrounding air temperature. A large\u00a0insulated battery bank may vary as little as 10 degrees over 24 hours internally,\u00a0even though the air temperature varies from 20 to 70 degrees. For this reason,\u00a0external (add-on) temperature sensors should be attached to one of the POSITIVE\u00a0plate terminals, and bundled up a little with some type of insulation on the\u00a0terminal. The sensor will then read very close to the actual internal battery\u00a0temperature.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Even though battery capacity at high temperatures is higher, battery life is shortened.\u00a0Battery capacity is reduced by 50% at -22 degrees F &#8211; but battery LIFE increases by\u00a0about 60%. Battery life is reduced at higher temperatures &#8211; for every 15 degrees F\u00a0over 77, battery life is cut in half. This holds true for ANY type of Lead-acid battery,\u00a0whether sealed, gelled, AGM, industrial or whatever. This is actually not as bad as it\u00a0seems, as the battery will tend to average out the good and bad times.<\/p>\n<p>One last note on temperatures &#8211; in a few places that have extremely cold or hot\u00a0conditions, batteries may be sold locally that are NOT standard electrolyte (acid)\u00a0strengths. The electrolyte may be stronger (for cold) or weaker (for very hot) climates.\u00a0In such cases, the specific gravity and the voltages may vary from what we show for\u00a0flooded batteries.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Cycles vs Life<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>A battery &#8220;cycle&#8221; is one complete discharge and recharge cycle. It is usually\u00a0considered to be discharging from 100% to 20%, and then back to 100%. However,\u00a0there are \u00a0often ratings for other depth of discharge cycles, the most common ones are\u00a010%, 20%, and 50%. You have to be careful when looking at ratings that list how\u00a0many cycles a battery is rated for unless it also states how far down it is being\u00a0discharged. For example, one of the widely advertised telephone type (float service)\u00a0batteries have been advertised\u00a0as having a 20-year life. If you\u00a0look at the fine print, it has that\u00a0rating only at 5% DOD &#8211; it is\u00a0much less when used in an\u00a0application where they are\u00a0cycled deeper on a regular\u00a0basis. Those same batteries\u00a0are rated at less than 5 years if\u00a0cycled to 50%. For example,\u00a0most golf cart batteries are\u00a0rated for about 550 cycles to\u00a050% discharge &#8211; which\u00a0equates to about 2 years.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/Battery-Diagram-2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-522\" src=\"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/Battery-Diagram-2-300x197.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"197\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Battery life is directly related to how deep the battery is cycled each time. If a battery\u00a0is discharged to 50% every day, it will last about twice as long as if it is cycled to 80%\u00a0DOD. If cycled only 10% DOD, it will last about 5 times as long as one cycled to 50%.\u00a0Obviously, there are some practical limitations on this &#8211; you don&#8217;t usually want to have a 5 ton pile of batteries sitting there just to reduce the DOD. The most practical\u00a0number to use is 50% DOD on a regular basis. This does NOT mean you cannot go to\u00a080% once in a while. It&#8217;s just that when designing a system when you have some idea\u00a0of the loads, you should figure on an average DOD of around 50% for the best\u00a0storage vs cost factor. Also, there is an upper limit &#8211; a battery that is continually cycled\u00a05% or less will usually not last as long as one cycled down 10%. This happens\u00a0because at very shallow cycles, the Lead Dioxide tends to build up in clumps on the\u00a0the positive plates rather in an even film. The graph above shows how lifespan \u00a0is\u00a0affected by depth of discharge. The chart is for a Concorde Lifeline battery, but all\u00a0lead-acid batteries will be similar in the shape of the curve, although the number of<br \/>\ncycles will vary.<\/p>\n<h3>Battery Voltages<\/h3>\n<p>All Lead-acid batteries supply about 2.14 volts per cell (12.6 to 12.8 for a 12 volt\u00a0battery) when fully charged. Batteries that are stored for long periods will eventually\u00a0lose all their charge. This &#8220;leakage&#8221; or self discharge varies considerably with battery\u00a0type, age, &amp; temperature. It can range from about 1% to 15% per month. Generally,\u00a0new AGM batteries have the lowest, and old industrial (lead-antimony plates) are the\u00a0highest. In systems that are continually connected to some type charging source,\u00a0whether it is solar, wind, or an AC powered charger this is seldom a problem.\u00a0However, one of the biggest killers of batteries is sitting stored in a partly discharged\u00a0state for a few months. A &#8220;float&#8221; charge should be maintained on the batteries even if\u00a0they are not used (or, especially if they are not used). Even most &#8220;dry charged&#8221;\u00a0batteries (those sold without electrolyte so they can be shipped more easily, with acid\u00a0added later) will deteriorate over time. Max storage life on those is about 2-3 years.<\/p>\n<p>Batteries self-discharge faster at higher temperatures. Lifespan can also be seriously\u00a0reduced at higher temperatures &#8211; most manufacturers state this as a 50% loss in life\u00a0for every 15 degrees F over a 77 degree cell temperature. Lifespan is increased at the\u00a0same rate if below 77 degrees, but capacity is reduced. This tends to even out in \u00a0most\u00a0systems &#8211; they will spend part of their life at higher temperatures, and part at lower.<\/p>\n<p><em><strong>Myth: The old myth about not storing batteries on concrete floors is just that &#8211; a\u00a0myth. This old story has been around for 100 years, and originated back when\u00a0battery cases were made up of wood and asphalt. The acid would leak from\u00a0them, and form a slow-discharging circuit through the now acid-soaked and\u00a0conductive floor.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<h3>State of Charge<\/h3>\n<p>State of charge, or conversely, the depth of discharge (DOD) can be determined by\u00a0measuring the voltage and\/or the specific gravity of the acid with a hydrometer. This\u00a0will NOT tell you how good (capacity in AH) the battery condition is &#8211; only a sustained\u00a0load test can do that. Voltage on a fully charged battery will read 2.12 to 2.15 volts\u00a0per cell, or 12.7 volts for a 12 volt battery. At 50% the reading will be 2.03 VPC (Volts\u00a0Per Cell), and at 0% will be 1.75 VPC or less. Specific gravity will be about 1.265 for a\u00a0fully charged cell, and 1.13 or less for a totally discharged cell. This can vary with\u00a0battery types and brands somewhat &#8211; when you buy new batteries you should charge\u00a0them up and let them sit for a while, then take a reference measurement. Many\u00a0batteries are sealed, and hydrometer reading cannot be taken, so you must rely on\u00a0voltage. Hydrometer readings may not tell the whole story, as it takes a while for the\u00a0acid to get mixed up in wet cells. If measured right after charging, you might see 1.27 at the top of the cell, even though it is much less at the bottom. This does not apply to\u00a0gelled or AGM batteries.<\/p>\n<h3>&#8220;False&#8221; Capacity<\/h3>\n<p>A battery can meet all the tests for being at full charge, yet be much lower than it&#8217;s\u00a0original capacity. If plates are damaged, sulfated, or partially gone from long use, the\u00a0battery may give the appearance of being fully charged, but in reality acts like a\u00a0battery of much smaller size. This same thing can occur in gelled cells if they are\u00a0overcharged and gaps or bubbles occur in the gel. What is left of the plates may be\u00a0fully functional, but with only 20% of the plates left&#8230; Batteries usually go bad for other\u00a0reasons before reaching this point, but it is something to be aware of if your batteries\u00a0seem to test OK but lack capacity and go dead very quickly under load.<\/p>\n<p>On the table below, you have to be careful that you are not just measuring the surface\u00a0charge. To properly check the voltages, the battery should sit at rest for a few hours,\u00a0or you should put a small load on it, such as a small automotive bulb, for a few\u00a0minutes. The voltages below apply to ALL Lead-acid batteries, except gelled. For gel\u00a0cells, subtract .2 volts. Note that the voltages when actually charging will be quite\u00a0different, so do not use these numbers for a battery that is under charge.<\/p>\n<h3>Amp-Hour Capacity<\/h3>\n<p>All deep cycle batteries are rated in amp-hours. An amp-hour is one amp for one hour,\u00a0or 10 amps for 1\/10 of an hour and so forth. It is amps x hours. If you have\u00a0something that pulls 20 amps, and you use it for 20 minutes, then the amp-hours used\u00a0would be 20 (amps) x .333 (hours), or 6.67 AH. The accepted AH rating time period\u00a0for batteries used in solar electric and backup power systems (and for nearly all deep\u00a0cycle batteries) is the &#8220;20 hour rate&#8221;. This means that it is discharged down to 10.5\u00a0volts over a 20 hour period while the total actual amp-hours it supplies is measured.\u00a0Sometimes ratings at the 6 hour rate and 100 hour rate are also given \u00a0or\u00a0comparison and for different applications. The 6-hour rate is often used for industrial\u00a0batteries, as that is a typical daily duty cycle. Sometimes the 100 hour rate is given\u00a0just to make the battery look better than it really is, but it is also useful for figuring\u00a0battery capacity for long-term backup amp-hour requirements.<\/p>\n<h3>Why amp-hours are specified at a particular rate:<\/h3>\n<p>Because of something called the Peukert Effect. The Peukert value is directly related\u00a0to the internal resistance of the battery. The higher the internal resistance, the higher\u00a0the losses while charging and discharging, especially at higher currents. This means\u00a0that the faster a battery is used (discharged), the LOWER the AH capacity.\u00a0Conversely, if it is drained slower, the AH capacity is higher. This is important\u00a0because some folks have chosen to rate their batteries at the 100 hour rate &#8211; which\u00a0makes them look a lot better than they really are.<\/p>\n<p>Here are some typical battery capacities from the manufacturers data sheets:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/Battery-Diagram-3.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-525\" src=\"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/Battery-Diagram-3-300x65.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"563\" height=\"122\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/Battery-Diagram-3a.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-526\" src=\"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/Battery-Diagram-3a-300x64.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"558\" height=\"119\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h3>State of Charge<\/h3>\n<p>Here are no-load typical voltages vs state of charge(figured at 10.5 volts = fully\u00a0discharged, and 77 degrees F). Voltages are for a 12 volt battery system. For 24 volt\u00a0systems multiply by 2, for 48 volt system, multiply by 4. VPC is the volts per individual\u00a0cell &#8211; if you measure more than a .2 volt difference between each cell, you need to\u00a0equalize, \u00a0r your batteries are going bad, or they may be sulfated. These voltages are\u00a0for batteries that have been at rest for 3 hours or more. Batteries that are being charged\u00a0will be higher &#8211; the voltages while under charge will not tell you anything, you have to let\u00a0the battery sit for a while. For longest life, batteries should stay in the green zone.\u00a0Occasional dips into the yellow are not harmful, but continual discharges to those levels\u00a0will shorten battery life considerably. It is important to realize that voltage measurements\u00a0are only approximate. The best determination is to measure the specific gravity, but in\u00a0many batteries this is difficult or impossible. Note the large voltage drop in the last 10%.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/Battery-Diagram-4.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-527\" src=\"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/Battery-Diagram-4-300x183.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"502\" height=\"306\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>10% &#8212;&gt; 11.31 &#8212;&gt; \u00a01.89<br \/>\n0 &#8212;&gt; 10.5 &#8212;&gt; \u00a01.75<\/p>\n<p>&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<\/p>\n<p>These voltages are always a bit &#8220;iffy&#8221;, as they depend on what you consider to be a\u00a0totally discharged battery. For example, the chart above shows the usual industry\u00a0standard of 10.5 volts as being 100% discharged. A few charts around though &#8211; like\u00a0for some inverters &#8211; will show 100% discharge as being at some other voltage, usually\u00a0around 11.2 to 11.5.<\/p>\n<p>&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.<\/p>\n<h3>Battery Charging<\/h3>\n<p><em><strong>Battery charging takes place in 3 basic stages: Bulk, Absorption, and Float.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong>Bulk Charge &#8211;<\/strong> The first stage of 3-stage battery charging. Current is sent to batterie\u00a0at the maximum safe rate they will accept until voltage rises to near (80-90%) full\u00a0charge level. Voltages at this stage typically range from 10.5 volts to 15 volts. There is\u00a0no &#8220;correct&#8221; voltage for bulk charging, but there may be limits on the maximum current\u00a0that the battery and\/or wiring can take.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Absorption Charge:<\/strong> The 2nd stage of 3-stage battery charging. Voltage remains\u00a0constant and current gradually tapers off as internal resistance increases during\u00a0charging. It is during this stage that the charger puts out maximum voltage. Voltages\u00a0at this stage are typically around 14.2 to 15.5 volts.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Float Charge:<\/strong> The 3rd stage of 3-stage battery charging. After batteries reach full\u00a0charge, charging voltage is reduced to a lower level (typically 12.8 to 13.2) to reduce\u00a0gassing and prolong battery life. This is often referred to as a maintenance or trickle\u00a0charge, since it&#8217;s main purpose is to keep an already charged battery from\u00a0discharging. PWM, or &#8220;pulse width modulation&#8221; accomplishes the same thing. In\u00a0PWM, the controller or charger senses tiny voltage drops in the battery and sends\u00a0very short charging cycles (pulses) to the battery. This may occur several hundred\u00a0times per minute. It is called &#8220;pulse width&#8221; because the width of the pulses may vary\u00a0from a few microseconds to several seconds. Note that for long term float service,\u00a0such as backup power systems that are seldom discharged, the float voltage should\u00a0be around 13.02 to 13.20 volts.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Chargers:<\/strong> Most garage and consumer (automotive) type battery chargers are bulk\u00a0charge only, and have little (if any) voltage regulation. They are fine for a quick boost\u00a0to low batteries, but not to leave on for long periods. Among the regulated chargers,\u00a0there are the voltage regulated ones, such as Iota Engineering and Todd, which keep\u00a0a constant regulated voltage on the batteries. If these are set to the correct voltages\u00a0for your batteries, they will keep the batteries charged without damage. These are\u00a0sometimes called &#8220;taper charge&#8221; &#8211; as if that is a selling point. What taper charge really\u00a0means is that as the battery gets charged up, the voltage goes up, so the amps out of\u00a0the charger goes down. They charge OK, but a charger rated at 20 amps may only be\u00a0supplying 5 amps when the batteries are 80% charged. To get around this, certain<br \/>\nchargers have &#8220;smart&#8221;, or multi-stage controls. These use a variable voltage that\u00a0starts lower but keeps rising to keep the charging amps much more constant for faster\u00a0charging.<\/p>\n<h3>Battery Charging Voltages and Currents:<\/h3>\n<p>Most flooded batteries should be charged at no more than the &#8220;C\/8\u201d rate for any\u00a0sustained period. &#8220;C\/8&#8221; is the battery capacity at the 20-hour rate divided by 8. For a 220\u00a0AH battery, this would equal 26 Amps. Gelled cells should be charged at no more than\u00a0the C\/20 rate, or 5% of their amp-hour capacity. The Concorde AGM batteries are a\u00a0special case &#8211; the can be charged at up the Cx2 rate, or 200% of the capacity for the\u00a0bulk charge cycle. However, since very few battery cables can take that much \u00a0current,\u00a0we don&#8217;t recommend you try this at home. To avoid cable overheating, you should stick\u00a0to C\/4 or less.<\/p>\n<p>Charging at 15.5 volts will give you a 100% charge on Lead-acid batteries. Once the\u00a0charging voltage reaches 2.583 volts per cell, charging should stop or be reduced to a\u00a0trickle charge. Note that flooded batteries MUST bubble (gas) somewhat occasionally\u00a0to insure a full charge, and to mix the electrolyte. Float voltage for Lead-acid batteries\u00a0should be about 2.15 to 2.23 volts per cell, or about 12.9-13.4 volts for a 12 volt\u00a0battery. At higher temperatures (over 85 degrees F) this should be reduced to about\u00a02.10 volts per cell.<\/p>\n<p>Never add acid to a battery, except to replace spilled liquid. Distilled or deionized\u00a0water should be used to top off flooded batteries. Float and charging voltages for\u00a0gelled batteries are usually about 2\/10th volt less than for flooded to reduce water\u00a0loss. Note that many shunt-type charge controllers sold for solar systems will NOT\u00a0give you a full charge &#8211; check the specifications first. To get a full charge, you must\u00a0continue to apply a current after the battery voltage reaches the cutoff point of most of\u00a0these type of controllers. This is why we recommend the charge controls and battery\u00a0chargers listed in the sections above. Not all shunt type controllers are 100% on or off,\u00a0but most are.<\/p>\n<p>Flooded battery life can be extended if an <strong>equalizing charge<\/strong> is applied every 10 to\u00a040 days. This is a charge that is about 10% higher than normal full charge voltage,<br \/>\nand is applied for about 2 to 16 hours. This makes sure that all the cells are equally\u00a0charged, and the gas bubbles mix the electrolyte. If the liquid in standard wet cells is\u00a0not mixed, the electrolyte becomes &#8220;stratified&#8221;. You can have very strong solution at\u00a0the top, and very weak at the bottom of the cell. With stratification, you can test a\u00a0battery with a hydrometer and get readings that are quite a ways off. If you cannot\u00a0equalize for some reason, you should let the battery sit for at least 24 hours and then\u00a0use the hydrometer. AGM and gelled should be equalized 2-4 times a year at most\u00a0(some manufacturers do not recommend an equalizing charge) &#8211; check the\u00a0manufacturers recommendations, especially on gelled.<\/p>\n<h3>Battery Aging<\/h3>\n<p>As batteries age, their maintenance requirements change. This means longer\u00a0charging time and\/or higher finish rate (higher amperage at the end of the charge).\u00a0Usually older batteries need to be watered more often. And, their capacity decreases.\u00a0Internal resistance goes up, so higher voltages may be needed to keep the same rate\u00a0of charging current.<\/p>\n<h3>Mini Factoids<\/h3>\n<p>Nearly all batteries will not reach full capacity until cycled 10-30 times. A brand new\u00a0battery will have a capacity of about 5-10% less than the rated capacity.<\/p>\n<p>Batteries should be watered after charging unless the plates are exposed, then add\u00a0just enough water to cover the plates. The liquid will expand somewhat when fully\u00a0charged. After a full charge, the water level should be even in all cells and usually 1\/4&#8243;\u00a0to 1\/2&#8243; below the bottom of the fill well in the cell (depends on battery size and type).<\/p>\n<p>In situations where multiple batteries are connected in series, parallel or\u00a0series\/parallel, replacement batteries should be the same size, type and manufacturer\u00a0(if possible). Age and usage level should be the same as the companion batteries. Do\u00a0not put a new battery in a pack which is more than 3 months old or has more than 75\u00a0cycles. Either replace with all new or use a good used battery. For long life batteries,\u00a0such as the Surrette and Crown, you can have up to a one year age difference.<\/p>\n<p>The vent caps on flooded batteries should remain on the battery while charging. This\u00a0prevents a lot of the water loss and splashing that may occur when they are bubbling.\u00a0The only exception we know of is that Hydrocaps should be removed when\u00a0equalizing.<\/p>\n<p>When you first buy a new set of flooded (wet) batteries, you should fully charge and\u00a0equalize them, and then take a hydrometer reading for future reference. Since not all\u00a0batteries have exactly the same acid strength, this will give you a baseline for future\u00a0readings.\u00a0When using a small solar panel to keep a float (maintenance) charge on a battery\u00a0(without using a charge controller), choose a panel that will give a maximum output of\u00a0about 1\/300th to 1\/1000th of the amp-hour capacity. For a pair of 200 Amp-Hour golf\u00a0cart batteries, that would be about a 1 to 5 watt panel &#8211; the smaller panel if you get 5\u00a0or more hours of sun per day, the larger one for those long cloudy winter days in the\u00a0Northeast.<\/p>\n<p>Lead-acid batteries do NOT have a memory, and the rumor that they should be fully\u00a0discharged to avoid this &#8220;memory&#8221; is totally false and will lead to early battery failure.<\/p>\n<p>Inactivity can be extremely harmful to a battery, especially if not 100% charged. It is a\u00a0VERY poor idea to buy new batteries and &#8220;save&#8221; them for later. Either buy them when\u00a0you need them, or keep them on a continual trickle charge. The best thing &#8211; if you buy\u00a0them, use them.<\/p>\n<p>Only clean water should be used for cleaning the outside of batteries. Solvents or\u00a0spray cleaners should not be used. Contrary to what you may have heard, it is usually\u00a0not a good idea to use baking soda to neutralize any acid on the outside of a battery.\u00a0Even a tiny amount getting inside will also neutralize acid IN the battery. If you need to\u00a0use it, make sure all the caps are on the battery. Mixing up a tablespoon or so in a\u00a0small glass of water works for neutralizing any acid around the posts &#8211; but again, be\u00a0careful not to get any inside.<\/p>\n<h3>Who is Peukert, and why should I care?<\/h3>\n<p>The true capacity of a battery depends on the rate of discharge. The faster the rate of\u00a0discharge, the less total amp-hours that can be delivered. This was first described\u00a0back in 1897 by a researcher named Peukert. The Peukert&#8217;s number essentially tells\u00a0you the effective internal resistance of the battery. Peukert applies to ALL batteries of\u00a0any type (except some high end Lithium-Ion), not just the Lead-acid normally used.<\/p>\n<p>A Peukert value of 1 would be the ideal battery, which does not exist. The higher the\u00a0number, the more internal resistance &#8211; which translates into more losses and heat.\u00a0Typical batteries currently sold range from around 1.07 up to as high as 1.6. Typical\u00a0for most flooded is around 1.2, for deep cycle AGM around 1.1. Anything over about\u00a01.3 is pretty bad, and indicates a junk battery, or one that is pretty old and\/or sulfated.<\/p>\n<p>The &#8220;Peukert Capacity&#8221; of a battery is the total number of amp-hours that you can\u00a0get from a battery when discharged steadily at exactly one amp &#8211; or basically just how\u00a0many hours it takes for the battery to drop to 10.5 volts at 1 amp draw.<\/p>\n<p>Some Peukert Exponent values (not complete, just for info).<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Trojan T-105 = 1.25<\/li>\n<li>Concorde AGM = 1.06<\/li>\n<li>Optima 750S = 1.109<\/li>\n<li>US Battery 2200 = 1.20<\/li>\n<li>Hawker Genesis = 1.11<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>More information &#8211; Manufacturers Websites<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.jgdarden.com\/batteryfaq\/carfaq7.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> www.jgdarden.com\/batteryfaq\/carfaq7.htm<\/a> &#8211; another very good site for lots of battery<br \/>\ninfo.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.usbattery.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">www.usbattery.com <\/a>&#8211; some good information and data.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.usbattery.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">www.trojanbattery.com<\/a> &#8211; not a lot of real technical info here, but has all the<br \/>\nspecifications.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.usbattery.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">www.surrette.com<\/a> &#8211; Specs and data on the Surrette deep cycle and marine batteries<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.concordebattery.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">www.concordebattery.com<\/a> &#8211; specs and data on all Concorde batteries.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>~ <em>Submitted by Mike S., 2017<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A Compendium Of Battery Information Downloadable article as a PDF by clicking here. First, a little history \u2013 Although Alessandro Volta in Italy is usually credited with being the inventor of the\u00a0modern battery (Silver-Zinc), ancient cells have been discovered in Sumerian ruins,\u00a0origin around 250 BC.. or maybe 400 AD &#8211; there is some dispute over [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"parent":379,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-511","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/511","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=511"}],"version-history":[{"count":18,"href":"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/511\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1798,"href":"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/511\/revisions\/1798"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/379"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.ghls.org\/ghlsv1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=511"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}